Last day in Loutro. The bay is calmer today, but when I walk to the headland, I see the west wind is still up. Some ferries are cancelled, but mine to Agia Roumeli is still running, and from there it is likely that I will get to Palaióchora. There are leaving ceremonies for all our trekkers. They ask me to sing a few songs with my guitar, so I do (of course) – Water (Fall Upon Her) and Last Balloon.
After breakfast I walk to the little house high in the east. I’ve been looking at this all week wondering why it is still roughly the colour of the earth and not whitewashed. I discover it is old, has its own goat, a couple of ancient olive trees, but yet to have the roof covered. I sit in the shade of some old rock caves there, smelling of straw, and take in the view one more time.
The ferry arrives and we are hurried aboard. There’s no time to dawdle when the sea is up. In, out and onward! I’m happy about that, as travel days tend to take on a different tenor. A late lunch at Agia Roumeli of tomatoes, herbs and soft feta on rusk bread is delicious, slathered in delicious sweet olive oil and sea salt. A fredo espresso to keep me perky, and I’m off to use the little time I have left to explore the town. I’m still drawn to the coast, as the waves build and crash onto the beach. The sound of the pebbles rolling under the wash is so beautiful that I record a little of it. Inspiration for later, perhaps, as I move into the songwriting leg of my journey. My ferry arrives late, as the sea is slowing down the schedule. We change piers and I am off on the final leg of the trip. I watch the sun set over the Libyan Sea as the Samaria-1 draws closer to the peninsular called Palaióchora. Trundling over the cobbles, my guitar on my back, I’m there at Mania’s in no time. A small stone cottage, with garden and obligatory cat, conveniently across the road from a taverna, though it feels like a village lane. I go to sleep with the sound of waves nearby and my body still rocking from the ferry ride.